By Kelly Miller
Bromeliads are flowering plants in the Bromeliaceae family. They’re mainly native to tropical regions in the Americas but many species have become popular houseplants. It’s fun to grow bromeliads indoors because of their interesting, colorful foliage, exotic, long-lasting blooms, and because they require little care or maintenance.
There are thousands of species of bromeliads, including the familiar pineapple plant. However, bromeliads that are popular for home décor are usually chosen for their unique leaf coloration or exceptionally showy blooms. Here are some essential tips on how to care for bromeliads in your home.
The Best Bromeliads to Grow as Houseplants
There are over 3,000 bromeliad species. Some are terrestrial, others are epiphytes. An epiphyte is a plant that grows on the surface of another plant, while a terrestrial plant is a “normal” plant that grows with its roots in the ground.
Terrestrial Bromeliads
The most popular terrestrial bromeliads come from two genera: Dyckia and Cryptanthus.
Dyckia bromeliads have spiny, succulent, grayish foliage and produce long, orange flower spikes. Unlike most bromeliads, Dyckia species don’t die after blooming.
Cryptanthus bromeliads are known for their rosettes of foliage that create a charming star shape that has earned them the common name, “earth stars”. They are available in an incredible number of colors and leaf patterns making it very difficult to choose just one!
Epiphytic Bromeliads
In nature, epiphytes grow attached to trees or other plants. Some epiphytes, such as many species of orchids and bromeliads, also grow well as potted houseplants.
Epiphytic bromeliads use their roots to grab hold of whatever base or substrate they’re growing on. Many have cup-shaped foliage that collects rainwater and nutrients.
Guzmania, Neoregelia, Aechmea, Vriesea, and Tillandsia are all epiphytic bromeliad genera that are popular as houseplants. There are dozens or even hundreds of species within each genus.
Bromeliad Life Cycle
A bromeliad’s foliage forms a circular arrangement known as a rosette. As the plant develops, it continuously produces new leaves in the rosette’s center.
Most bromeliads grow for one to five years before finally blooming. Blooms usually last for 3–6 months.
When a bromeliad starts to bloom, it stops forming new leaves. Instead, the plant begins producing buds, known as pups, around its base. Most bromeliads only bloom once. As the plant finishes producing pups, it begins dying, but each pup represents the start of another new life cycle.
Caring for Bromeliads Indoors
Because bromeliads are tropical plants they thrive in warm, humid environments. In North America, bromeliads can only grow outdoors in the warmest regions (Zones 10 and 11). However, they can also thrive indoors.
When caring for bromeliads indoors, it’s important to know if your species is terrestrial or epiphytic. Terrestrial varieties are more like typical houseplants, since they naturally grow in soil.
Container and Potting Mix for Bromeliads
Grow bromeliads in pots that are wide enough to provide space for future pups to emerge. Only use containers with drainage.
Grow terrestrial bromeliads in light, airy soil that isn’t packed too tight. Their ideal potting mix is rich in organic matter, well-draining, and slightly acidic, with a pH between 4.6 and 5.4. As needed, add non-soil components like horticultural sand or perlite to improve drainage.
Epiphytic bromeliads don’t naturally grow in soil. However, they can thrive as potted houseplants as long as their roots don’t get soggy.
Grow epiphytes in shallow pots with multiple drainage holes. For extra drainage plant in an unglazed terracotta pot. Some water naturally evaporates through the porous clay, helping to prevent the soil from staying too wet.
Since epiphytic bromeliads don’t take in nutrients from soil, they can grow in a soilless potting mix. The easiest option is to use a mix designed for orchids (which are also usually epiphytic). Or, make your own mix with elements like perlite, bark, charcoal, or sphagnum moss.
Light for Bromeliads Indoors
Most bromeliads grow best in bright, indirect light. Bromeliad foliage becomes less vibrant with insufficient light, while too much direct sun can cause scorching.
Some bromeliads prefer more light than others. In general, species with soft, spineless foliage need less light. Bromeliads with stiff, spiny leaves thrive in brighter, more direct light.
How to Water Bromeliads
Fill the Tank with Water
Many epiphytic bromeliads grow foliage that forms a funnel shape in the center. This feature, known as a “cup” or a “tank,” stores water and nutrients for the plant to absorb. To water a tank bromeliad, simply “fill the tank” whenever it’s nearly empty. For best results, use rainwater or distilled water to avoid exposing the plant to salts and chemicals. Around once per week, flush out the tank to avoid a buildup of debris and bacteria.
Bromeliads that don’t have tanks should be watered whenever the top two inches (5 cm) of soil is dry to the touch.
Soak Tillandsia Air Plants
Tillandsias, commonly called “air plants”, have become one of the most popular bromeliads because of their ability to thrive without soil. Unlike traditional houseplants, Tillandsias absorb moisture and nutrients through small scales on their leaves called trichomes, making them ideal for creative displays such as mounted to bark, tucked in a seashell, grouped in a dish on a tabletop, or used as hanging ornaments. They’re a fun and easy plant for beginners.
Tillandsias should be thoroughly soaked about once a week. Submerge the entire plant in room temperature water for 20–30 minutes, then gently shake off excess moisture and allow it to dry completely before returning it to its display spot. In especially dry environments or during hotter months, misting your air plant lightly several times between soakings can help maintain proper hydration.
Bromeliads Like High Humidity
Along with receiving water through their roots or cups, bromeliads thrive in high humidity.
There are two common methods for replicating high humidity around a houseplant: misting the foliage and placing a tray of gravel and water under the pot. However, there’s not much evidence that these methods make a major difference. Fortunately, regular indoor humidity probably won’t cause harm, as long as the plant is otherwise well cared for. If you decide an adjustment is necessary, use a humidifier machine.
Feeding Bromeliads Indoors
Bromeliads don’t need much, if any, fertilizer. To feed bromeliads, sprinkle a small amount of slow-release fertilizer grains around the base of the plant (not in the tank). Or, spray the foliage with a liquid fertilizer, using either an orchid fertilizer or a balanced houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Bromeliad Propagation
As a bromeliad finishes producing pups, its bloom fades and the plant begins to die. The death of the mother plant at this time is normal, and it can’t be “rescued.” The good news is that the plant can live on in its pups.
When the bloom is spent, it should be removed so that the plant can redirect its energy toward new growth. Use a sharp pair of scissors or shears and snip off the entire flower stalk at its base.
After removing the old bloom, continue watering the plant normally. Allow the pups to develop until they’re taller than 1/3 of the height of the mother plant. Then, you can dig up the plant, separate the pups, and repot them as new plants.
Discover More Tropical Houseplants
While it’s true that bromeliads begin dying as they bloom, their blooms are long-lasting and the rest of their life cycle provides brilliant foliage. And although epiphytic plants have unusual demands, bromeliads can thrive indoors with minimal care requirements.
Looking for more ideas for colorful, easy-to-grow tropical houseplants? Learn all about Tradescantia, another group of colorful foliage plants, here: Tradescantia Growing Guide.
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