Best in fertile, well-drained soil. Keep soil moist, watering freely in dry weather. Apply a summer mulch to retain moisture. Prune back early each spring for best display.
Keep soil evenly moist.
Fertile, well-drained soil.
Slow release feed in spring.
‘Wintergreen’ is a wonderful, carefree boxwood cultivar. The dainty foliage and compact size are perfect for smaller gardens and containers. The shrub has a naturally dense, rounded habit and should rarely require pruning to maintain a tidy shape. Makes a nice short hedge or compliment to larger shrubs with bold foliage.
A classic favorite for landscape focal points. Looks beautiful in the garden as a specimen or clipped hedge. Excellent for planting along fences and walls.
Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.
Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.
Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.
Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.
Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.
Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.
Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.
Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.
Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.
Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.
I have several of these and after winter the leaves have turned yellow. We had a fairly mild winter in Minnesota. I fertilized last spring and have watered one time this spring as we have had rain. What could I be doing wrong?
Thank You
Hi Denny,
Although you say you had a mild winter, Minnesota winter conditions could still have resulted in winter burn (one of the most common reasons for boxwood leaves to turn yellow in winter). Once the ground freezes the plant is unable to uptake water to replace moisture drawn from the foliage by winds and sunlight. Wrapping your shrubs with burlap would be a good precaution in the future.
If your shrubs are located near a walk, drive, or patio where salt is applied, this could lead to yellowed foliage. The salt melt gets into the root zone where it can disrupt or damage the roots and prevent moisture uptake – resulting in yellow leaves.
You should also inspect your shrubs for infestations of insect pests such as scale, leaf miners, and mites.
Well-draining soil is important for the overall health of your shrubs. If they’re in a location that is poorly drained, waterlogged roots can rot and develop fungal infections. The damage to the roots can result in disrupted water uptake and yellow leaves.
My plants did the same thing. Is there anything I can do to help now with the winter burn or is the plant gone?
Hi Rita,
The extent of any permanent damage should become evident as spring progresses. Live areas of the shrub should begin to sprout and then you’ll be able to see where to prune away any dead stems and branch tips. If the entire shrub is dead that will become apparent as well. In that case you would need to replace it, perhaps with something more cold-tolerant.
When you see that your shrub is re-sprouting, applying a general-purpose fertilizer can give it a boost.