Dwarf Cherry ‘Valentine’ (Prunus cerasus)

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Plant Details

Category: Nursery
Light: Full Sun
Bloom Season: Spring
Height: 6-10' / 
Space: 5-10' / 
Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
Lowest Temp: -40° to -30°F / 
-40° to -34°C
Colors: Grown for Fruit

Basic Care

When planting, keep the base of the trunk exposed. Best in fertile, well-drained soil. Water regularly until established. Prune when dormant, in late autumn or late winter.


Water regularly until established.


Fertile, well-drained soil.


Apply a complete fertilizer formulated for fruit bearing varieties.

attracts pollinators

Attracts Pollinators

attracts birds

Attracts Birds

attracts butterflies

Attracts Butterflies

Ornamental Flower




This hardy dwarf variety developed at the University of Saskatchewan produces an abundance of sweet-tart, bright red fruits ideal for using in pies. The compact size makes this an excellent selection for borders or small space gardens. This is a lovely tree for all seasons, with fragrant spring blooms, glossy foliage and red cherries in the summer, and attractive ornamental bark year-round. Birds love the fruit so be sure to cover the tree with netting as the fruit start to ripen or there may be few left for cherry pie.


The tart flavor is excellent for baking and preserves. Delicious when used to make Cherry pie.

Dwarf Cherry ‘Valentine’ (Prunus cerasus) Care Guide

Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.

Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.

To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.

To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.

Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.

Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.

Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.

Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.

To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.

Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.

Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.

Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.

Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.

Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.

Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.

Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.

Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.

Companion/Combination Plants


  1. Sonia Mcgraw

    my valentine cherry is in its second year. on the spring it had a lot of flowers but it did not produce any fruit. what did i do wrong.

    • My Garden Life

      Hi Sonia,
      Some patience is required. A newly planted sour cherry tree typically takes 4-5 years to bear fruit. Once your tree has matured you should start to see good productivity every year. Having said that, cherry trees do require a cold period to trigger fruiting, typically anywhere from 700 to 1,200 hours for cherry trees, in temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees F. This process is called vernalization.

      Here’s a link to a map showing chilling hours for the U.S. so you can get an idea how many hours your region averages. A fluke warm spike above 45 degrees F can set a tree back, or even disrupt fruit production completely if the buds break and then temperatures quickly drop again. Something to keep in mind if you are on the fringe of an ideal growing region for cherry trees.


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