Perennials can be planted anytime from spring through fall.
Prepare the garden by breaking up the existing soil (use a hoe, spade, or power tiller) to a depth of 12-16” (30-40cm). Add organic matter such as manure, peat moss or garden compost until the soil is loose and easy to work. Organic ingredients improve drainage, add nutrients, and encourage earthworms and other organisms that help keep soil healthy. Give plants an extra boost by adding a granulated starter fertilizer or all-purpose feed that encourages blooming (for example fertilizers labeled 5-10-5).
Check the plant label for suggested spacing and the mature height of the plant. Position plants so that taller plants are in the center or background of the landscape design and shorter plants in the foreground. To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot.
Dig the hole up to two times larger than the root ball and deep enough that the plant will be at the same level in the ground as the soil level in the container. Grasping the plant at the top of the root ball, use your finger to lightly rake the roots apart. This is especially important if the roots are dense and have filled up the container. Set the plant in the hole.
Push the soil gently around the roots filling in empty space around the root ball. Firm the soil down around the plant by hand, tamping with the flat side of a small trowel, or even by pressing down on the soil by foot. The soil covering the planting hole should be even with the surrounding soil, or up to one inch higher than the top of the root ball. New plantings should be watered daily for a couple of weeks to get them well established.
Plan ahead, for plants that get tall and require staking or support cages. It’s best to install cages early in the spring, or at planting time, before the foliage gets bushy. Vining plants require vertical space to grow, so provide a trellis, fence, wall or other structure that allows the plant to grow freely and spread.
Finish up with a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch such as shredded bark or compost to make the garden look tidy, reduce weeds, and retain soil moisture.
Herbs are ideal for containers. Pots can be brought indoors for the winter and placed near a sunny window for a continuous harvest year-round.
Prepare the garden by breaking up the existing soil (use a hoe, spade, or power tiller) to a depth of 12-16” (30-40cm). Add organic matter such as manure, peat moss or garden compost until the soil is loose and easy to work. Organic ingredients improve drainage, add nutrients, and encourage earthworms and other organisms that help keep soil healthy.
Check the plant label for suggested spacing and the mature height of the plant. Position plants so that taller plants are in the center or background of the landscape design and shorter plants in the foreground. To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot.
Dig the hole up to two times larger than the root ball and deep enough that the plant will be at the same level in the ground as the soil level in the container. Grasping the plant at the top of the root ball, use your finger to lightly rake apart the lower roots apart. This is especially important if the roots are dense and have filled up the container. Set the plant in the hole.
Push the soil gently around the roots filling in empty space around the root ball. Firm the soil down around the plant by hand, tamping with the flat side of a small trowel, or even by pressing down on the soil by foot. The soil covering the planting hole should be even with the surrounding soil, or up to one inch higher than the top of the root ball. New plantings should be watered daily for a couple of weeks to get them well established.
Finish up with a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch such as shredded bark or compost to make the garden look tidy, reduce weeds, and retain soil moisture.
Hello: these are beautiful brown flowers– where can a fellow buy seeds for these brown flowers? thank You for your time and help.
Hi Donald,
Echibeckia is a cross between a coneflower and a black-eyed Susan and it is propagated by division, not seeds. You will want to look for plants at local garden centers, or you could try an internet search for “echibeckia plants for sale”.
Mine came in a beautiful pot, can I leave it in the pot for now then plant in the ground! So that it will come up next year? Thank you
Hi Anna,
Yes you can grow your Echcibeckia in a pot and then plant it in the ground in late summer or early fall. You’ll want to give it enough time to settle in the ground and hopefully establish some root growth before freezing temperatures set in. The foliage will die back naturally for the winter and your plant should reemerge in the spring.
I just bought a 3 ft. Echcibekia Summerina “Orange” from Home Depot in a 10-inch pot. It looks good, no sign of wilting or disease. I noticed that it has three separate plants growing in the same pot: two mature plants and a third one that is just a baby. Is it a good idea to plant them all as-they-are in the same hole in the ground? The plant guide says these plants should be spaced at least 12″ apart. Maybe I should wait until next spring, then separate them and transplant two of them the proper distance away.
Also, do these plants spread by rhizomes? Or other means? I am asking so that I can locate this plant to allow for spreading.
Hi Michael,
For the most impactful display you would want to plant your echibeckia as-is. If you divide it, the overall display may look sparse as you will have multiple plants but few, or no flowers on some of the plants. If your intention is to divide it anyway in the spring, timing isn’t much of a factor depending on the weather. If you’re have a hot, dry summer dividing now may increase the stress on the plant divisions. We’ve seen some reports that these hybrids may struggle in regions with harsh winters so if you’re in an area with hard winters we suggest applying a winter mulch to help protect the roots whichever decision you make.