Adapts well to a range of soils with excellent drainage. Drought tolerant once established. Prune when dormant, in late autumn or late winter.
Water regularly until established.
Fertile, well-drained soil.
Slow release feed in spring.
Sunburst’ is a thornless variety of Honeylocust with foliage sure to brighten any garden. Leaves emerge yellow then age to bright green and finally shade to yellow again in autumn. The tiny leaves, clustered along the branches, add fine texture to the landscape and make for minimal cleanup after leaf drop.
A classic favorite for landscape focal points. Provides shade and large-scale beauty to landscapes.
Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.
Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.
Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.
Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.
Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.
Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.
Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.
Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.
Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.
Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.
Has anyone ever needed to discourage these trees from blooming/flowering so much? Maybe a mineral or other chemical? We have a mature tree that was planted just 20′ from the house and over the deck. I am cursing it because it is so messy. If it was just over grass or mulch it would be fine. It’s partly over and upwind of our deck and some roof. The flowers get wet and stick to everything, form mats and they smell bad. AFter 25 years of this, I am ready to cut it down even though it’s a nice shady tree for us. The flowers, the flower stems, the tiny leaves and then the leaf stems. So much stuff. Not worth it.
So, is there a chemical way to reduce the bloom? That would be a huge deal for us.
Hello Uma,
There are certainly pros and cons to flowering trees and unfortunately one of those cons can be the unwanted mess they create. Professional operations such as orchards and nurseries have mechanical and chemical methods for discouraging flowering and fruiting on their trees. However, even their success varies based on several factors such as timing and the health of the tree. For a homeowner, it would be best to call in a professional for an assessment of the situation. They will be able to offer up solutions that are best for your landscape, sanity, and wallet.