Plant in any sunny location in the garden. Best in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Prune to maintain desired shape. Male and female plants are needed to obtain fruit.
Water regularly until established.
Fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil.
Annually with organic matter.
A globe-shaped, densely branched selection with stems that are purple when young. Glossy evergreen leaves provide winter interest. Very easy to grow and maintain. Male and female plants are needed to obtain fruit.
Great for texture in borders, use for hedging or foundations. Superb for holiday arrangements, striking in snow scapes. Makes a breathtaking specimen plant.
Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.
Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.
Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.
Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.
Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.
Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.
Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.
Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.
Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.
Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.
Our Holly turned brown on the top over the winter and green still on the bottom. Is this normal?
Hi Tina,
A number of conditions can cause the top of a holly to brown. Winter burn is one of the most common. It can result from extreme cold temperatures, drying winds, and bright sun. The lower leaves, closer to the ground, are better protected from adverse conditions and remain green, especially if the lower part of the shrub is insulated by snow cover.
Warm spells in the middle of winter can also cause problems. The warm weather can trigger the plant to try to grow, but if the ground is still frozen and the shrub can’t uptake water, the leaves can dry and turn brown.
Even if the leaves are brown, the stem may not be, so you will want to wait to see if new growth emerges in the spring before doing any pruning. Brown leaves may drop on their own, or you can go back later and tidy up any unsightly leaves or dead stems.
Thank you for the great information. Is it best to wrap them in winter with burlap to protect?
Hi Tina,
Japanese hollies don’t usually require wrapping for winter protection, but since yours did suffer some damage, it suggests there may be something about the shrub or growing conditions that you need to consider. Two common reasons to wrap a Japanese holly for the winter include: the shrub is young and not well established, or it is in a location where it is very exposed to cold, drying winds. Or, in your case, the shrub has experienced winter damage making it more probable that it could happen again.
The record-setting extreme cold that many regions experienced this past winter, and the damages it caused, probably has left a lot of gardeners considering whether to wrap vulnerable shrubs in the future. Cold and wind, and wild temperature swings were a problem, but ice and snow that accumulated on evergreen foliage also resulted in damaged foliage and broken branches. While it’s impossible to predict what the weather will do, taking the precaution of wrapping your most prized shrubs would offer some protection from wind and the weight of accumulating ice or snow. For additional tips on protecting shrubs in winter have a look at our article: Protecting Sensitive Shrubs in Winter.