Perennials can be planted anytime from spring through fall.
Prepare the garden by breaking up the existing soil (use a hoe, spade, or power tiller) to a depth of 12-16” (30-40cm). Add organic matter such as manure, peat moss or garden compost until the soil is loose and easy to work. Organic ingredients improve drainage, add nutrients, and encourage earthworms and other organisms that help keep soil healthy. Give plants an extra boost by adding a granulated starter fertilizer or all-purpose feed that encourages blooming (for example fertilizers labeled 5-10-5).
Check the plant label for suggested spacing and the mature height of the plant. Position plants so that taller plants are in the center or background of the landscape design and shorter plants in the foreground. To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot.
Dig the hole up to two times larger than the root ball and deep enough that the plant will be at the same level in the ground as the soil level in the container. Grasping the plant at the top of the root ball, use your finger to lightly rake the roots apart. This is especially important if the roots are dense and have filled up the container. Set the plant in the hole.
Push the soil gently around the roots filling in empty space around the root ball. Firm the soil down around the plant by hand, tamping with the flat side of a small trowel, or even by pressing down on the soil by foot. The soil covering the planting hole should be even with the surrounding soil, or up to one inch higher than the top of the root ball. New plantings should be watered daily for a couple of weeks to get them well established.
Plan ahead, for plants that get tall and require staking or support cages. It’s best to install cages early in the spring, or at planting time, before the foliage gets bushy. Vining plants require vertical space to grow, so provide a trellis, fence, wall or other structure that allows the plant to grow freely and spread.
Finish up with a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch such as shredded bark or compost to make the garden look tidy, reduce weeds, and retain soil moisture.
This is the most dramatic and attention craving plant I’ve ever had. It constantly goes from fresh & beautiful to wilted flat. Any suggestions on how to keep it perky?
Hi Stacie,
We’re assuming that “wilted flat” is a result of your leopard plant getting dry but then it perks back up with watering? If keeping the plant consistently moist is the issue, you could try applying an inch or two of mulch around the root zone. That would help retain moisture longer and perhaps extend the period between thorough waterings. Also, leopard plant can struggle in full sun; it prefers morning or late afternoon sun that isn’t so intense, or a situation where it gets dappled shade through the day.
Pruning advice?
Hi Norman,
Your leopard plant requires very little when it comes to pruning. You can remove dead or damaged leaves at any time by cutting them off at the base of the stem. You can lightly prune in late winter or early spring to shape or size your plant and stimulate fresh growth. Take care not to remove more than a third of the plant at one time to avoid stressing the plant.