Peach ‘White Princess’ (Prunus persica)

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Plant Details

Category: Nursery
Light: Full Sun
Bloom Season:
Height: 10-15' / 
3-4.6m
Space: 12-15' / 
3.7-4.6m
Zones: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Lowest Temp: -20° to -10°F / 
-29° to -23°C
Colors: Grown for Fruit

Basic Care

When planting, keep the base of the trunk exposed. Best in fertile, well-drained soil. Water regularly until established. Prune when dormant, in late autumn or late winter.

Water

Water regularly until established.

Soil

Fertile, well-drained soil.

Feed

Apply a complete fertilizer formulated for fruit bearing varieties.

attracts pollinators

Attracts Pollinators

plants that grow upright

Grows Upright

Sun Loving

Culinary

Fruit

Features

This late season-ripening variety produces loads of red-blushed peaches with sweet, white flesh. Fresh fruit surpasses anything you can buy, and is surprisingly easy to grow. Fruits are freestone. Harvest late season.

Uses

Produces fresh fruit for a delicious and nutritious snack. The perfect addition to any fresh fruit tray. Best used for large scale plantings.

Peach ‘White Princess’ (Prunus persica) Care Guide

Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.

Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.

To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.

To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.

Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.

Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.

Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.

Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.

To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.

Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.

Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.

Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.

Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.

Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.

Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.

Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.

Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.

Companion/Combination Plants

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8 Comments

  1. PAULA M NELSON

    I have this type of peach. Can you pick them when they aren’t quite ripe? I lost half the pears to bugs the last week or so. Do they pipes off the tree?

    I also need to prune when dormant. It was the 2nd year they procuced fruit.
    What do you recommend? Can the top be shorted, as well as branches and ‘water sprouts’ cut off?

    My 2nd grade neighbor, who checked on the tree daily, said they were the most delicious peaches he ever had!

    Reply
    • My Garden Life

      Hi Paula,
      It’s always better to allow peaches to remain on the tree and pick the peaches as close to ripeness as possible. Early picking can affect the flavor and sweetness. Having said that, peaches picked a little early will continue to ripen/soften but the flavor may not sweeten. It’s best to keep early picked peaches at room temperature. If stored in the refrigerator the ripening process will be slowed. On that note, if you want to slow the ripening process you can put peaches in the fridge. You could hasten the ripening process by placing them in a paper bag for a few days at room temperature.

      Please have a look at our article, How to Prune Fruit Trees, for tips on how to prune your peach tree. You should feel free to remove those water sprouts, also known as “suckers”, at any time in the season since they steal a lot of energy from the tree. As long as you are pruning at the proper time of year, you should be able to shape and size your tree as needed.

      That’s a great recommendation on the flavor from your little neighbor. I’m sure many will take this into consideration when deciding on which peach variety to select. 😊

      Reply
  2. Nomsa E Mbethe

    Do you have white princess peaches trees? How much? Where?

    Reply
    • My Garden Life

      Hi Nomsa,
      My Garden Life is a source of plant and gardening information, we do not sell plants. We suggest you check with a tree nursery in your area; perhaps even if they don’t carry this variety, they could special order it for you. Otherwise, look for online sources by entering “White Princess peach tree” in your browser search.

      Reply
  3. Robin Svuba

    I have two peach trees one is a white princess and the other is a diamond princess. They are eight years old and bloom beautifully but have five to six fruits begin but never grow. They said they are self-pollinating and don’t need another tree. What can I do to help them produce fruit?

    Reply
    • My Garden Life

      Hi Robin,
      ‘White Princess’ and ‘Diamond Princess’ are indeed self-fertile, however they do benefit from another pollinator – which is what you have provided by planting them near each other. Introducing a third tree might improve the odds, but if your trees are blooming well, there may be other considerations.

      Peaches require a certain number of “chill hours” for optimal fruit set (chill hours are the number of hours spent below 45°F during the dormant season). ‘White Princess’ requires 200-300 chill hours and ‘Diamond Princess’ needs 700 chill hours. You want to be sure your peach varieties are suitable for your growing region and receiving the appropriate chill hours.

      Light can impact fruit development. Peaches require 6-8 hours of full sun per day for optimum productivity. Your peach trees should be away from buildings or large deciduous trees that may leaf out and shade them later in the spring.

      For more assistance on varieties for your region, or questions about fruit production, you may want to contact your regional Cooperative Extension office or connect through their Ask Extension website. In this way you can get expert advice on varieties tailored to your specific growing zone. Just follow the links provided here to connect.

      Reply
  4. Susan Koldan

    I have two of these White Princess Peach trees.
    In my opinion…the fruit is too soft to use in pie baking.
    The fruit is very good if eaten from the tree but baking is not recommended.

    Reply
    • My Garden Life

      Hi Susan,
      The white peach is lower in acid, possibly making it less desirable for canning or baking and better for fresh eating and light grilling or roasting. Yellow peaches are higher in acid and the classic choice for canning and baking and, of course, they offer beautiful color.

      Reply

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