When planting, keep the base of the trunk exposed. Best in fertile, well-drained soil. Water regularly until established. Prune when dormant, in late autumn or late winter.
Water regularly until established.
Fertile, well-drained soil.
Apply a complete fertilizer formulated for fruit bearing varieties.
This late season-ripening variety produces loads of red-blushed peaches with sweet, white flesh. Fresh fruit surpasses anything you can buy, and is surprisingly easy to grow. Fruits are freestone. Harvest late season.
Produces fresh fruit for a delicious and nutritious snack. The perfect addition to any fresh fruit tray. Best used for large scale plantings.
Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.
Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.
Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.
Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.
Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.
Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.
Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.
Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.
Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.
Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.
I have this type of peach. Can you pick them when they aren’t quite ripe? I lost half the pears to bugs the last week or so. Do they pipes off the tree?
I also need to prune when dormant. It was the 2nd year they procuced fruit.
What do you recommend? Can the top be shorted, as well as branches and ‘water sprouts’ cut off?
My 2nd grade neighbor, who checked on the tree daily, said they were the most delicious peaches he ever had!
Hi Paula,
It’s always better to allow peaches to remain on the tree and pick the peaches as close to ripeness as possible. Early picking can affect the flavor and sweetness. Having said that, peaches picked a little early will continue to ripen/soften but the flavor may not sweeten. It’s best to keep early picked peaches at room temperature. If stored in the refrigerator the ripening process will be slowed. On that note, if you want to slow the ripening process you can put peaches in the fridge. You could hasten the ripening process by placing them in a paper bag for a few days at room temperature.
Please have a look at our article, How to Prune Fruit Trees, for tips on how to prune your peach tree. You should feel free to remove those water sprouts, also known as “suckers”, at any time in the season since they steal a lot of energy from the tree. As long as you are pruning at the proper time of year, you should be able to shape and size your tree as needed.
That’s a great recommendation on the flavor from your little neighbor. I’m sure many will take this into consideration when deciding on which peach variety to select. 😊