Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure.
If planting in the ground:
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
Remove the plant from its nursery container and set the plant in the hole.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
If planting in a patio planter or other container:
Start with a good quality, commercial potting soil. These are usually lighter in weight than topsoil, sterile and pest-free. Many are available with a mild starter fertilizer in the mix.
Select a container with a drainage hole or be prepared to drill holes for drainage if there are none.
Prepare the container by filling with potting soil up to 2” (5cm) from the rim of the planter leaving some space in the middle for placing the plant. Remove the plant from its nursery pot.
Insert the plant into the hole and press soil firmly around the roots. Add soil if necessary to cover the root ball. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and give plants a good start.
Plan ahead for vining plants that might require a trellis or support cage. It’s best to install supports at planting time, before the foliage gets bushy.
(Question) We have a night light near our dwarf trinettes (near the door). They are “in-ground”. Height now is ~4 feet. Now have “excessive” heat in Florida. Plants are thinning and leaves are turning brown. Is it lack of sufficient water, the night light, or lack of fertilizer (we have let it go due to birds and butterflies around them constantly…..They are ~10-15 yrs old.
Hi PK,
It seems unlikely that your arboricola shrubs are being affected by your landscape light if you’ve got the typical, small landscape lights. Arboricolas are known to be drought tolerant once well-established (and yours are) so that shouldn’t be a worry – unless you’ve been in an exceptional period of drought. In that case you should grab a hand trowel and check the soil around the root zone down to about 6” deep. If it’s not obvious whether the soil is moist or dry, feel it with your fingers. Water thoroughly if dry.
You didn’t say how hot the temperatures have been, but anything over 90 degrees F is unpleasant for an arboricola and can result in yellowing and browning leaves that would likely drop from the plant eventually. This would be made worse if your shrubs get long periods of full sun. If that is the case, and more 90+ degree temperatures are expected, you could erect a temporary shade structure to try to protect your shrubs until temperatures start to go down.
Excessive water can also cause problems. If you’ve had heavy rains and standing water, your arboricola plants might react. Typical symptoms are overall drooping, yellowing leaves and/or leaves with brown edges. But it does seem more likely that it’s the heat.
Arboricola shrubs are known to be heavy feeders so when your shrubs recover, you should consider feeding them during periods of active growth (spring and summer usually). Don’t fertilize your shrubs until they stabilize; the rule is “never fertilize a sick plant” because you can actually make things worse if there’s a problem with the roots. Applying a granulated slow-release fertilizer in the spring is an easy way to provide a supply of nutrients without worries of overfertilizing (follow product recommendations for application rate). If you work it into the soil around the root zone, it’s unlikely it would have any detrimental affects on your wildlife.
Lastly, inspect your shrubs closely for any signs of insect pests. For example, high heat can encourage a spike in spider mite populations. Mites can cause yellowing and leaf drop on an infested arboricola plant. We recommend using a magnifying glass to inspect the trunk, stems, and undersides of the leaves to look for problems.