Very easy to grow in virtually any location. Adapts to most soil types. Water regularly until established. Prune when dormant, in late autumn or late winter.
Water regularly until established.
Fertile, well-drained soil.
Not necessary.
A unique combination of color and form, sure to make this tree the center of attention. Deep purple foliage covers a cascade of “weeping” branches. The narrow, columnar form creates a sculptural effect in the landscape. A slow grower perfect for small space gardens!
Provides instant form and structure to the landscape. Ideal for small-space gardens! Wonderful for mixed borders.
Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.
Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.
To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.
To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.
Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.
Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.
Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.
Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.
Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.
Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.
Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.
Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.
Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.
Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.
Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.
I have a young purple fountain beech tree in a large pot. I wanted to plant it in the ground but the branches drag over 6 inches on the ground and cutting them back would make it look terrible. The weeping is the best part. As it grows, will they raise? Do you trim them, let them drag? I’m at a loss but I don’t want it to look like it got a bad haircut.
Hi St,
It is the nature of ‘Purple Fountain’ beech to have the lower branches touching the ground. If the tree had been growing in the ground all along, rather than in a pot, it simply would have branched naturally along the ground. The branches are unlikely to rise as the tree grows and normally you would just let them “drag” as you put it. Occasional trimming may be needed for different reasons, such as to remove dead branches or control the size or shape of the tree. Pruning is best done when the tree is dormant, in late winter or early spring.
Your tree would grow best planted in the ground, so maybe the best approach is to go ahead and plant it, leaving the long lower branches and allowing them to drape along the ground. Allow it to grow like that for a season and see what you think. If you decide you don’t like the way it looks, you can trim the branches back in the late winter. Either way, the tree is destined to be placed in the ground for its overall health and growth so you will ultimately have to commit to a decision.