Weeping Cherry ‘Pendula’ (Prunus subhirtella)

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Plant Details

Category: Nursery
Light: Full Sun
Bloom Season: Spring
Height: 25-30' / 
7.6-9.1m
Space: 10-15' / 
3-4.6m
Zones: 5, 6, 7, 8
Lowest Temp: -20° to -10°F / 
-29° to -23°C
Colors: Pink, White

Basic Care

Best in fertile, well-drained soil. Prune after plant has bloomed to maintain desired shape.

Water

Water 2 – 3 times per week until established.

Soil

Adapts to most soil types. Prefers a well-drained location.

Feed

Slow release feed in spring.

Attracts Birds

Attracts Butterflies

Fragrant

Fruit

Good Fall Color

Containers

border plants

Borders

Features

Weeping cherry trees add an instant touch of artistry to the landscape. The gracefully arched branches look great in any season. In spring the tree produces a cascade of fragrant pink blooms. During the summer the soft form adds a relaxing, fluid shape in the garden. In winter, the weeping branches become sculpture-like when covered with a layer of snow. Weeping cherry trees produce small, edible fruits but they are not sweet and flavorful like other species of cherries. Fruits won’t go to waste though; they provide a welcome treat for a variety of bird species.

Uses

Popular for planting near entranceways, near the patio, or as a focal point in a large mixed planting. Makes a breathtaking specimen plant and can be grown in a large container. This is a great selection for smaller yards. Surround with spring bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils to welcome spring on a grand scale.

Weeping Cherry ‘Pendula’ (Prunus subhirtella) Care Guide

Plant in spring or early fall to give plants the best start.

Choose a location that will allow roots to spread and branches to grow freely. Space plants far enough from building foundations, walls, and decks so that the growing foliage won’t crowd the structure. Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines.

To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily.

To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot. The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side.

Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap. If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers.

Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem.

Water the plant well then add a 2” (5cm) layer of mulch, such as shredded bark, around the planting area. Keep the mulch at least 4” (10cm) away from the trunk of the plant as this can keep the bark too moist and cause it to decay.

Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. During hot spells thoroughly soaking the ground up to 8” (20 cm) every few days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.

To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.

Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own.

Pruning may be needed to remove dead branches, encourage bushier growth, promote more flowers, or maintain a specific size or shape.

Dead branches should be removed close to the trunk, flush with the bark. When pruning to control a plant’s size or shape, cuts should be made just above a leaf bud and at a slight angle. This bud will be where the new growth sprouts.

Many shrubs can be regularly sheared to keep them shaped as a hedge, edging or formal foundation planting.

Always use sharp, clean tools when pruning. There are many tools available depending on the job. Hand shears, pruners, and loppers are ideal for most shrubs. Pole pruners and tree saws are better for large, mature shrubs or trees. If a tree is so large that it can’t be safely pruned with a pole pruner, it is best to call in a professional tree service.

Established trees should be fertilized every 2-3 years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.

Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Determine which application method is best for the situation and select a product designed for trees and shrubs, or go with a nutritionally balanced, general-purpose formula such as 10-10-10.

Always follow the fertilizer package directions for application rates and scheduling. Over-fertilizing plants or applying at the wrong time during the growing season can result in plant injury.

Companion/Combination Plants

2 Comments

  1. Pam Strohfus

    We have a weeping subhirtella cherry pendula tree. It is a beautiful 25 foot tree. It has a lot of cherries on it. Small thumbtack size. Can these be eaten or jellied?

    Reply
    • My Garden Life

      Hi Pam,
      The Prunus subhirtella cherry tree is grown for its ornamental beauty and is not recommended for fruit consumption; fresh or jellied. However, the fruits may be enjoyed by birds or other wildlife.

      Reply

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