How to Grow a Mini Meadow Garden

By Kelly Miller

Meadows bring to mind tall grass swaying in the wind, flowers dotting the landscape, and the lively sounds of insects and birds. To bring a bit of this scenery to life, you don’t need much space. In 50 square feet (4.6 sq m) or less, you can create a vibrant “mini meadow” full of grasses and wildflowers.

Even if you don’t have much land to work with, establishing a small meadow is a worthwhile project. The benefits of a meadow include:

• Colorful wildflower blooms.
• Low-maintenance groundcover that reduces mowing and watering.
• Food and habitat for birds and pollinators.
• Restore native plant species to the landscape.

Creating a mini meadow requires some initial preparation. Let’s step through everything you need to know to plan your mini meadow, including site preparation, plant selection, and seasonal maintenance.

What Is a Meadow?

A meadow is an area covered mainly with grass. Meadows are associated with flat, low-elevation areas. They’re often near rivers and used for livestock grazing or hay production.

In small-scale gardening and landscaping, a meadow is often a small plot within or next to a regular green-grass lawn. The factors that differentiate a meadow and a lawn include:

• Use of native grasses rather than turf grasses.
• Addition of wildflowers.
• Allowing plants to grow tall and produce flowers and seeds.

In urban and suburban areas, there’s a renewed interest in growing meadows. Meadow growers are usually motivated by a desire to help out pollinators like bees and butterflies. With a mini meadow, pollinator-friendly gardening can be achieved on even a very small piece of land.

Site Selection: How Much Space Is Needed for a Mini Meadow?

You can plant native grasses or wildflowers in whatever space you have available. If you’re wondering how much land is required to create a distinctive, wildlife-friendly meadow, then 50 square feet (4.6 sq m) is a good minimum size to aim for.

Choose an open area that doesn’t have any major sources of shade. Most meadow plants prefer full sun. You’ll need to adjust your plant selection if you don’t have a sunny spot to work with. Typical sites for mini meadows include:

• In the middle of a front or back yard.
• The strip of land between a sidewalk and a yard.
• Next to a veggie garden (attracting pollinators and luring away pests).

Site Preparation: Creating a Blank Slate for Your Meadow

Before planting a meadow, you need to make the space bare and weedless. Do this by mowing the area short, then covering it with a plastic sheet or tarp. Covering the ground to kill plant life is known as “soil tarping”. There are two tarping methods:

• Solarization: use clear greenhouse plastic that transmits sunlight and kills grass and weeds with heat (works best in warm climates).
• Occultation: use black silage tarp to kill grass and weeds by blocking sunlight and preventing photosynthesis.

Learn more about soil tarping in these guides from the University of Minnesota and South Dakota State University.

Soil tarping takes 3-6 weeks to clear the area. After removing the tarp, use a pitchfork to turn up the soil and remove the dead grass or weeds. Plan on planting soon after removing the tarp so that weeds don’t have the opportunity to reclaim the soil.

If you don’t have time for tarping, other methods for clearing your meadow space include:

• Rototilling: use a rototiller (spinning blade tool) to turn up the soil, then remove the plant debris.
• Hand tools: use garden tools (shovel, pitchfork, spade) to turn up the soil and remove the grass or weeds by hand.
• Sheet mulching: remove grass or weeds, then cover the ground with a layer of cardboard under a layer of soil.

Every site is different, and more effort may be required to thoroughly clear a site. A guide from the University of New Hampshire describes meadow establishment as a three-year process and recommends devoting an entire summer to weed suppression before planting wildflowers.

Planters and Raised Garden Beds

It is possible to grow a mini meadow in a large planter or raised garden bed. You’ll still need a sunny location. You will also want to be sure that the soil is a well-draining blend of soil and organic material. If the planter doesn’t have drainage holes, then you’ll need to drill some.  

When choosing seeds or plants consider the size of the planter. You may want to choose shorter plant species that may perform better in a contained space.

Meadow Plant Selection: Wildflowers and Grasses

A mini meadow has wildflowers, grasses, or both. Here are a few of the best wildflowers for meadows. The plants in this list are perennials, North American natives, and pollinator-friendly.

Wild Bergamot, Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)

Wild bergamot is a clump-forming, bushy, rounded plant that produces aromatic, gray-green foliage. Lavender blooms appear in late summer that resemble upside down mop heads. This North American native can be found growing wild in meadows, along roadways and ditches, and in open areas in the woods. It can also tolerate the soil around walnut trees. A favorite of hummingbirds, bees and butterflies!

Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)

Common milkweed is considered to be one of the very best host milkweed plants for monarch butterflies. This is a North American native plant that prefers an open, sunny space to grow its best. In the wild it can be found in prairies, fields, and growing along roadways. The ball-like clusters of fragrant flowers attract an array of pollinating insects throughout the summer. Blooms are followed by interesting, lightly spiny seed pods.

Aspen Fleabane, Oregon Fleabane (Erigeron speciosus)

This rugged North American native plant is incredibly easy to grow and carefree. Sprays of aster-like flower are produced over a long season in summer. Tolerant of poor soil and dry conditions. Makes a dependable mixed border plant. Looks great in rock gardens. Perfect for all kinds of containers. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida species)

This North American native wildflower can tolerate heat, drought, poor soil, winds and floods. It begins blooming in summer and continues well into Autumn. The yellow daisy-like flowers are a good nectar source for butterflies and birds enjoy the seeds. Makes a great focal point, background in a border, or planted along foundations and fences. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings. Excellent cut flowers for fresh arrangements.

California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)

This flower is so abundant and beloved in California that it was designated the State Flower. The beautiful, finely-textured foliage is incredibly heat and drought tolerant. Flowers have the interesting habit of closing at night and on cloudy days. Ideal choice for beds, borders, and cutting gardens. Wonderful for rock gardens and containers. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

Meadow Phlox, Wild Sweet William (Phlox maculata)

A beautiful North American native flower that can be found growing in meadows and woodland areas. The lush flower clusters are a magnet for bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Remove the faded flowers to encourage more blooms or allow to go to seed if seeking to naturalize an area. Effective in borders and cutting gardens. Ideal for specimen, foundations, and mass plantings. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Butterfly weed’s brilliant orange flowers attract butterflies and other beneficial pollinators to the garden. Butterfly weed, also known as orange milkweed, is a native perennial plant that can be found growing in prairies, fields, and along roadways over a wide range of North America. The only Asclepias species to have clear sap and alternate leaves. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings or flower borders.

Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis)

Goldenrod is a fast spreading, upright perennial perfect for providing a casual, quick-filling patch of color. Clusters of many tiny flowers form golden cones of bloom above fine-leaved stems. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings. Excellent for use in difficult spots where nothing else can survive. Provides long lasting cut flowers.

Penstemon, Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)

A vigorous Penstemon with tubular, bell-like blooms on a multitude of sturdy stems. Very tolerant of heat and humidity. Varieties of this easy-care species often have reddish to purple stems and foliage. The flowers are loved by hummingbirds! Excellent for borders, rock gardens, or mass plantings. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings. Terrific plant for hummingbird gardens.

Campion, Flower of Jove (Lychnis flos-jovis)

A mat-forming perennial with soft, silver-gray foliage that brings texture and contrast to the garden. An abundance of blooms covers this easy care alpine native throughout the summer. Wonderful for mixed borders and rock gardens.

Common Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Purple coneflower is a prairie native that makes a tough, self-reliant garden plant. The flowers attracts butterflies to the garden and if you don’t deadhead the blooms, birds will visit to feed on the seeds. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings.

Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata)

Coreopsis is one of the toughest, most durable perennials available! Large golden flowers on slender stems over attractive, narrow foliage. Provides a cheery, long-flowering display, but demands little attention. A must for the busy gardener and an ideal choice for beds, borders, and cutting gardens. Wonderful for rock gardens and containers. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

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Annual Flowers for a Mini Meadow

If you choose to include annuals, you’ll do more work each year but enjoy longer blooms and continuous color through the seasons. Go with annuals that grow tall and that aren’t sensitive. A few to consider are:

Cornflower, Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)

Cornflower is an annual plant, native to Europe, but is now an established wildflower in many parts of North America. It is common to see this plant along roadsides or growing amongst the weeds in abandoned spaces. When used in the garden, it adds a soft, meadow-feeling. Attracts bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects.

Mealy Cup Sage, Blue Sage (Salvia farinacea)

Dainty blooms cluster along solitary stems in a long season display. A nice companion to plants with bigger, bolder blooms or broad-leaves. Brings vertical interest to mixed plantings without overwhelming. Wonderful for mixed borders and rock gardens. Perfect for all kinds of containers.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Tall, strong-stemmed plants produce huge, richly colored blooms. The flowers are packed with seeds that attract songbirds! One of the easiest and most satisfying flowers for your garden. Sunflowers are resilient and generally stay insect- and disease-free. Ideal choice for beds, borders, and cutting gardens. Cut sunflowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Saucer-like blooms stand out against a backdrop of fine, airy leaves. Spanish missionaries gave it the name cosmos. Legend has it that the missionaries saw the symmetry of the petals as a symbol of the divinely ordered universe, the meaning of “cosmos” in Greek. Ideal choice for beds, borders, and cutting gardens. Cosmos look striking as a backing plant in mixed borders or filling out mixed plantings. Cut flowers are long-lasting in fresh bouquets.

Calendula, English Marigold, Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

Masses of sunny yellow or orange blooms are produced well into autumn. Calendula is an excellent backup for your garden favorites that have shorter bloom times. Calendula often self-seeds, providing you with bonus plants that are easily enjoyed, or easily removed for sharing. An ideal choice for beds, borders, cutting gardens, and containers.

Common Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

A favorite of gardeners and butterflies alike, Zinnias bring long-lasting, bright color and rich texture to any planting. Removal of spent blooms will assure the most prolific and ongoing floral display. Use in beds, borders, containers and window boxes. Provides long lasting cut flowers.

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Native Grasses for a Backyard Meadow

Grasses give your meadow a lush look and provide sheltered areas for all sorts of wildlife to find refuge or nesting materials. Native grasses to consider include:

Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepsis)

Prairie dropseed is one of the most popular North American native grasses for use in home landscapes. Clumps of narrow green foliage produce pale pink, fragrant seed heads in late summer. The foliage turns golden yellow in autumn and then to a creamy white in winter. Makes a dependable mixed border plant and a great filler among flowering plants.

Blue Grama Grass (Bouteloua gracilis)

Blue grama grass is a North American native grass that forms dense clumps of narrow green leaves. Brownish purple flower spikes appear in summer. This grass provides an important food source for many birds, animals, and butterfly larvae. Perfectly suited to informal, naturalized settings. Provides dramatic color and form to autumn and winter landscapes.

Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum)

Switch Grass is a North American native grass. It forms a dense clump with a narrow, upright habit that provides a strong vertical accent in the landscape. It grows in just about any type of soil, but prefers sandy loam. Several varieties are available offering a range of foliage and panicle colors from which to choose. Provides good winter cover for small mammals and nesting material for birds in the spring.

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To simplify plant selection, you can purchase a meadow seed mix that’s tailored to your region. Or, find a local organization, such as a nonprofit group or a university program, that supports native plant restoration and pollinator-friendly gardening. These organizations can recommend the best native meadow plants for your growing conditions.

Planting Your Meadow: Seeds or Starters

Plant your mini meadow with seeds or starter plants. The best time of year to sow wildflower and grass seeds is fall. If you’re using starters, spring is also suitable.

For a small meadow plot, it’s easy to distribute seeds by hand. If the seeds are tiny and difficult to handle, mix them with sand to make them easier to evenly scatter. Then, gently rake the ground to tamp down the seeds. They should have ample soil contact, but shouldn’t be buried. (Be sure to read the seed packages for detailed instructions.) 

For planting with seedlings, use plugs (small starter plants sold in soil trays) or bare roots (bundled starter roots sold without soil). Plant these starters by digging small holes, inserting the plants, tapping down the soil, and watering.

Planting with seeds is easy, inexpensive, and ideal if working with native plants. Using starters is helpful if you want to plant in the spring and see faster results.

Meadow Maintenance: Watering, Weeding, and Mowing

Native grasses and wildflowers don’t require watering or fertilizing. It’s also preferable to avoid weeding while your meadow is establishing. Pulling up plants can disturb seedlings and make the ground more inviting to invasives. Rather, proper site preparation and mowing are better defenses against weeds.

It’s helpful to mow your meadow several times during the first year. Mowing prevents the growth of woody plants and encourages grasses and wildflowers to grow strong roots. Mow at a high height (6–8 inches, 15–20 cm) to avoid harm to beneficial insects and before mowing make sure there are no small animals hiding in the grass.

If you’re more concerned with wildlife benefits than aesthetics, then your meadow won’t always be pretty. During the first year, growth will be patchy. Then, whenever the plants are tall but not in bloom, the site will look sloppy. If you’re concerned about what neighbors or the HOA might think, it’s helpful to add a border to your meadow. This makes the area look much tidier. You can also post a yard sign that proudly indicates the presence of wildflowers or pollinators.

Can You Make a Meadow by Letting a Portion of Lawn Grow Wild?

Another way to create a meadow is to simply stop mowing a portion of your lawn. This method has some appeal: it’s easy, free, and natural.

If you stop mowing turf grass, it will grow to a height of 1-2 feet (30–61 cm). In the spring, the grass will form small white flowers and seeds. Meanwhile, the roots may send aboveground runners to seek out the sunshine. The long blades will likely begin to turn brown and topple over, as the toughest weeds in the neighborhood begin to colonize the plot.

The “just don’t mow” approach to creating a meadow can be messy and unattractive. It’s also likely to become host to invasive plants, some of which may spread. However, the crowded grass and flowering weeds that grow there will provide food and habitat for species like pollinators, fireflies, and birds.

Growing Your Pollinator-Friendly Garden

Converting a portion of your lawn into a mini meadow is a great way to support pollinators. Find more ideal plants for your pollinator-friendly garden here: 12 High Pollen Flowers Bees Love.